Jane Jermyn Ceramics
  ``A celebration of nature through the transformation of clay by fire``
 
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Travels 1999-05
Travels 06/07
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Kilns/ Firings

Kiln for Standing Forms

I have built a number of these kilns.  It only takes a couple of days to put together and is a relatively cheap option.  The main expense is the burners.

Requirements for base:

Layer of concrete blocks

Layer of tin foil - acts as a heat deflector

Layer of HTI bricks - to cover the block base

Outer edging layer of HTIs on their sides to act as the kiln wall - I leave a 'burner port' at opposite corners of the end walls.

The lid is made from a sheet of Weldmesh, reinforced with aluminium flashing, if available, (adds strength and cuts down exposure to ceramic fibre)

I use 2 layers of ceramic fibre held in position with ceramic buttons / nichrome wire.

 

 

That is all the height I need for the Standing Forms, as they are fired on their sides.   If firing large 'Pod' forms I add another layer of bricks.

 

This is my present kiln for firing the Standing Forms and other long pieces of work

Kiln for bisque firings and also for raku firings of larger coiled vessels

Red hot pots in the raku kiln - it is the same as the one I use for bisque firings only half the size.  Both were made with the same materials used in the construction of the long kiln.

'Pyromania' in the reduction bin!

Pre-historic style Bonfire firing

 

1. Raw pots placed upside down on a board in the centre. Thickish logs were placed carefully around the work and the fire was gradually built up.

 

2. Dry twigs placed all around the outside of the bonfire.

3. A final layer of sod placed over the whole lot, gaps filled with soil. A small 'flue' for air was left open and stuffed with dry straw.  There was a small hole left in the top too, to act as a 'chimney'.

4. The fire was lit in a number of places around the bottom of the heap. Any area where smoke was escaping was filled with bits of sod/soil.  The aim was to get the fire to burn slowly from the outside inwards, so that the pots would gradually heat up.  This actually worked!  That evening I placed a couple of sheets of corrugated iron to prevent sparks from blowing around.

 

5. When I removed the iron the next morning, only a small amount of ash remained.

6. The resulting pots had some lovely markings from the fire, and all survived, except a couple of tiny cracks in the rims of the top layer of pots, due to shrinkage.

 


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